TOKYO

We hesitate to write about Tokyo, because we feel we’ve barely scratched the surface of this enormous, pulsing city. But we still couldn’t resist

Sushi Mizutani

Hands-down the best sushi we've ever had. Perfect seafood on perfect rice, with utter snobbery about the food paired with humility to the customer. 10 seats only, definitely book ahead.

Seiwa Silver Building B1F, 9-2-10 Ginza, Chou-ku, Tokyo 104-0061

+81 3 3573 5258

Gallery of Horyuji Treasures

The Tokyo National Museum is wonderful, and its standalone gallery to exhibit the Horyuji treasures is remarkable. A modernist cube houses Buddhist art dating back 14 centuries from one of the most celebrated temples in Japan.

http://www.tnm.jp/modules/r_free_page/index.php?id=119

Other Tokyo standouts

Tsukiji market for gawking at seafood, eating really well in the wee hours of the morning, and wandering the maze of shops selling kitchenware in the outer markets.

Capitol Hotel Tokyu for quiet, graceful, spacious design. http://www.capitolhoteltokyu.com/en/room/index.html

Manneken makes wonderful, chewy, buttery Belgian waffles that are cheap and cheerful. Near Mitsukuoshi department store, beside exit A1 of Ginza station. 5-7-19 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, +81 3-3289-0141

Isetan Men's for the most exciting menswear department store we've ever seen. 3-14-1, Shinjuku, Tokyo. http://www.isetan.co.jp.e.az.hp.transer.com/icm2/jsp/store/shinjuku/mens/index.js

USEFUL TIPS FOR JAPAN

Travel in Japan by train. The Japan Rail Pass is great value and convenience, and encourages spur of the moment exploration on the best train network in the world. There are nationwide and regional rail passes of various durations. They can only be purchased outside of Japan. http://www.japanrailpass.net/eng/en001.html

Hyperdia is an utterly reliable train route and timetable search tool http://www.hyperdia.com/en/

The New Year's sale that happens nationwide on 2nd January is incredible. We shop for 2 days, and hardly buy anything for the rest of the year